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Downtown Athens is busy, noisy, dusty, and frantic during the working day, and, usually, quite, interesting, and full of possibilities at night. Compared to most European capitals, what Athens lacks in architectural grace and infrastructure efficiencies it makes up in natural setting, in dining, in entertainment, and in nighlife.
Most Athenians adore their city and cannot stay away from it for too long. This is strange because Athens is a polluted city, with horrible traffic gridlock, slow, albeit mostly brand new, buses, and a 4-year old subway system that, although one of the best in the world, still only services a few areas of this huge city.
On top of all this, parking is scarce and expensive, most people drive their cars and ride their motorbikes like there is no tomorrow, a fair amount of aggression and rudeness permeates everyday life, and, at least for most of its citizens, Athens is a very expensive place to live. On top of this, parking spaces are limited, sidewalks are narrow, broken, and crammed with parked motor bikes, streets are pot-holed, and there are no real public recreation areas, like Central Park, Hyde Park, or Tokyo's Akasaka Park.
Still, they love it.
The weather has a lot to do with it, surely. But, perhaps the strongest tie that keeps people in this city is the social life. The streets of Athens, both downtown and in the neighborhoods, are always full of people walking, selling, fighting, driving, kissing, drinking coffee. Athenians seem to be living out in the streets. Most people here seek going out as a matter of everyday practice and it can be anywhere: for a walk, for a drink, for dinner, for dancing, and, mostly, for coffee.
Athens, like most of the rest of Greece, is a coffee-drinker's paradise. Most coffee shops put tables out on the sidewalk where customers can sit, sip their coffee for hours, and see and be seen. And they do, even when the weather is not ideal.
Downtown Athens is defined by Syntagma Square, the center of the city, the commercial area around Omonoia Square, the archeological sites south and west of Syntagma Square, and the district between Syntagma Square and the Hilton Hotel, known as Kolonaki.
Explore the city guide below for the best hotels, museums, archeological sites, walking tours, shopping, restaurants, bars, clubs, coffee shops, fitness centers and gyms, children's facilities and activities, and general information on Athens, including cellular telephony, embassies and consulates, and hospitals.
The Highlights
The archeological sites of the Acropolis, the Ancient Agora and the Thesseion, the Kerameikos, and the temple of Olympian Zeus.
The museums, and especially the National Archeological Museum (due to re-open in July 2004), the Historical Museum, the Museum of Byzantine Art, the Museum of Cycladic Art, and the Benaki Museum.
The traditional district of Plaka, just a few hundred meters from Syntagma Square.
The new restaurant scene of Athens, featuring Mediterranean fusion cuisine.
The old tavernas and eateries, for unbeatable and original Greek food.
The views from the Acropolis and Lycabettus.
The new Athens Metro subway.
We Recommend
Take one, or all, of the walking tours described in this guide.
Visit the archeological sites and the museums.
Shop for shoes and jewelry in Ermou and Panepistimiou Streets, and for rugs around Syntagma Square.
Have coffee at one of the coffee shops in Kolonaki Square and along Andrianou Street, next to the Thesseion archeological site, under the Acropolis.
Have dinner at the Orizontes restaurant, at the top of the Lycabettus hill for great food and even greater views.
Visit as many of the Metro stations as possible to witness a fine exhibition of the archeological finds discovered during excavations for the subway.
Have lunch at a Psyrri live-music tavern on a Saturday or Sunday to witness Greek reveling at its finest and loudest.
We Do Not Recommend
The restaurants at the Plaka traditional district.
Fast food joints: in a city with such a varied palate and food tradition, it would be a shame to waste even one meal with fried chicken.
Read our users' reviews...
I was amazed at how beautiful and safe this country is!
I visited Athens and a few islands in Greece last year (2005) and I was amazed at how beautiful and safe this country is, compared to other parts of Europe. I have also learnt a lot from reading about Athens on this website. Well done! I am not quite happy about discouraging people from taverns in Plaka. Plaka is the heart of Athens and I think the taverns are gorgeous!!! Steph Mekwuye, United Kingdom
The country code for Greece is 0030 (from the US and Canada: 01130).
Police Station
There are police stations in every neighborhood, and police are present everywhere in the city streets. Call 100 for emergencies.
Hospital
Greece has a National Health System whose emergency services are free to all, Greek and foreigner. Here is a list of Athens hospitals.
Pharmacy
Pharmacies are ubiquitous in Athens. Convenient ones include at the corner of Panepistimiou and Kriezotou, by Syntagma Square, and at Patriarchou Ioakeim and Loukianou, near Kolonaki Square. Opening hours are Monday through Friday 8 am to 2 pm. Pharmacies open in the off hours and during weekends are posted on the door of every pharmacy, by law.
Foreign Press Outlet
Most Athenian newstands, including the ones around Syntagma, Omonoia, and Kolonaki Squares, feature extensive offerings of foreign newspapers and magazines. The Eleftheroudakis bookstore, on Panepistimiou Street is the best English language outlet in Athens.
The two city bus depots are the Kifissos bus depot, in the city's Petralona western district, and the Patissia bus depot, on Liosion Street, about 5 km west of Omonoia Square. Take a cab there.
Bank
Athens is incredibly well banked. There are banks in every corner, and they all offer a full menu of services. Citibank has a major branch on Kolonaki Square (at Kanari Street), and American Express Bank is on Panepistimiou Street, across from the Saint Dennis Catholic Cathedral. Other major foreign banks are here. ATMs are ubiquitous and most offer a full array of international cash networks.
