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| Corfu |
| The greenest Greek island |
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| The bell tower of the church of Saint Spyridon, a distinctive marker on Corfu Town's skyline. |
The island of Corfu, the northwesternmost end of Greece, is truly a magnificent island. Corfu Town looks like what every other Greek town would like to look like, had it not been bulldozed under concrete after WWII. The interior is a lush green garden, over gentle rolling hills in the middle and the south, and Pantokrator mountain in the north. And the Corfiots, with a reputation for being devious, fun- loving bon viveurs, are some of the warmest hosts anywhere in the country.
Corfu is large, pretty, and important. It has always been that. In Homeric times, Corfu was the island of the Phaecians. Odysseus was washed ashore after a shipwreck, and was awakened by the song of the daughter of Nafsica, the daughter of King Alcinoos, and her entourage, who were frolicking by the seashore. Odysseus, according to Homer, got up and approached the girls to seek help, but they were startled and run away because he was stark naked. Only Princess Nafsika remained cool, talked to Odysseus, took him to Alcinoos' palace, who first wined and dined him and then gave him a ship and crew to sail him to Ithaca.
In Classical times, Corfu played a major role in history-making when its quarrel with Corinth, whose colony Corfu was, drew in first Athens and then Sparta, Corinth's ally, and led to the 27-year Peloponnesian War, immortalized by Thucededes. The war resulted in Athens' demise and marked the beginning of the end of Greece's glorious Classical period.
The history of Corfu after the Peloponnesian War was of Roman conquest and raids by the many barbaric tribes that descended on the Balkans at the dawn of the middle ages. Between 1204 and 1576 the island withstood two devastating attempts by the Ottoman Turks to bring it into the Imperial fold, a number of rebellions against invading Crusaders, and a number of bloody raids by wandering pirates. Finally, in 1576, after more than half of the population had been killed in the previous few decades, the Corfiots sought Venice's patronage and protection.
Venetian rule, as in Zakynthos, meant vigorous economic activity, rebuilding of the cities, and especially Corfu Town, and the establishment of a new class of nobility, the members of the Gilded Book, or the Libro d' Oro. Thus, the island withstood more Turkish attempts, and only fell to the French during the Napoleonic wars. The French rule is marked by a number of great buildings, including those lining Liston street.
Corfu came under British rule in 1815, after Waterloo, and acquired most of its present-day character and color, including the Ionian Academy, Corfu's university, that has been recently revived, the Corfiot's love of cricket and ginger beer (or "tzitzimbira", as it has come to be known) and the close ties between the island and the United Kingdom. Today, there are about 6,000 of Her Majesty's subjects living permanently on Corfu, and the presence of Brits in the northern part of the island is so dominant that Kassiopi is called affectionately Kensington-on-the-Ionian.
Among the famous foreigners that have, at one time or another, found love, inspiration, or refuge in Corfu are the family of Laurence Durrell, Queen Elizabeth, also known as Sissy, of Austro-Hungary, who built the Achilleion, and Kaiser Wilhelm II of Prussia, who bought it after Sissy's assasination by an Italian anarchist.
In 1864, Corfu, along with the rest of the Ionians, was given to Greece as a gift by Queen Victoria to the newly enthroned and Danish-born King George I. Since then, the island has seen two of its sons become Prime Ministers and various others playing key roles in the country's political, cultural, and social life. Corfiots, especially the descendants of the aristocracy created by Venetian edict, are very elegant and pleasant people, always well appointed and well spoken, and always ready to tell a joke and crack up in roaring laughter.
The northern part of the island, from Ipsos to Kassiopi, is dotted with luxury villas rented by upscale holidaymakers, many of whom come here as an extension of a social life that, in the rest of the year, takes place in the triangle between Mayfair, Kensington, and Chelsea. The area south of Corfu Town is a string of resort towns largely created along stretches of beach to accomodate the packaged tours crowds. Finally, the northwestern and western parts are less crowded, except for Paleokastritsa, greener and almost isolated. When driving from Peroulades to Paleokastritsa don't try to jog your radio dial in frustration: you are still in Corfu although you can only receive radio stations from Italy. |
| The Highlights |
- Corfu Town.
- Paleokastritsa, especially when you reach it from Lakones, instead of from the road from Corfu Town.
- The Achilleion. Even though some people may find it gaudy and flashy, it is definitely worth visiting. Don't be put off by the tacky souvenir tents lining the street outside the entrance to the villa.
- The beaches in the north, from Pelekito to Sidari.
- Corfiot cuisine, with sofrito (a spicy veal dish) and pastitsada (a veal and pasta dish) at their center and with local desserts like qumquat (a Chinese citrus fruit) dessert and liqueur.
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| We Recommend |
- Plan to spend at least 2-3 mornings in Corfu Town to walk its streets and visit the various sites of interest. Preferably, stay here for the duration of your trip. No beach or other place you might choose to visit on the island is more than an hour's drive away and nowhere is prettier in the early morning or from the late afternoon on.
- Make reservations to have dinner at Etrusco, the best restaurant in Corfu, that's really worth the 8 km drive from Town.
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| We Do Not Recommend |
- The resort towns in the southern part of island: mediocre beaches and no special interest
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| Read our users' reviews... |
| An atmosphere unique in all the world |
Corfu is an island apart. Its people, culture, terrain and geographic location create an atmosphere unique in all the world. We marveled at its outdoor markets, infused with the finest fish and vegetables
imaginable. We swam in cool, crystal-clear waters. Scaled the highest peak to imbibe extraordinary scenery. And, ah, the weather! An idyllic marriage of soft breezes and warm, welcoming sunshine.
In the midst of this beckoning, ancient land, a restaurant whose excellence deserves its location, Etrusco. My wife secretely planned my birthday to be celebrated on their terrace where, amidst its casual country ambience, we were romanced by the finest cuisine in my memory, enhanced by impeccable service in relaxed surroundings.
We plan to return to Corfu soon to once more savor the island's bounty, including the finest in local fare at Etrusco.
James Leeds, Ph.D., Hawaii, USA
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| It is a mistake |
Your comment that south Corfu has no noteworthy beaches is unfair. Many of the southern beaches of Corfu are uniquely pretty in their combination of seaside and mountain scenery. It is for this reason that scenes of a number of movies were shot there, including a James Bond movie. In addition, the biggest lagoon in Corfu is in the south and makes a unique spot, next to the beach. Some of the seaside resort areas that are worth visiting include Issos, Halikouna Lake, Santa Barbara, Saint George, Prasoudi beach, and Agios Gordios. Your visitors who read that you Do Not Recommend southern Corfu will be influenced and that is a mistake.
Konstantinos Palikiras, Greece
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| Visit our area to judge the beauty of southern Corfu |
I would like to comment on your remarks on southern Corfu. Whoever wrote your review has apparently never been to that part of Corfu, which has the best beaches on the island. Southern Corfu combines mountain and surf, something appreciated by all visitors. The best and cleanest beach of the area is Issos Hlomou, which is frequented daily by vacationers from northern Corfu, who also come to our village Hlomo. Unless you visit our area you cannot judge the beauty of southern Corfu.
Nikoletta Afthinou, Greece
NOTE: nyloo.com has visited southern Corfu and it based its review and assessment of that area on personal experience and views. |
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| Useful Information |
| The country code for Greece is 0030 (from the US and Canada: 01130). |
| Police Station |
| There are police stations in every major and secondary town, usually at the central square or on main street. For emergencies, dial 100. |
| Hospital |
| The general hospital is in Corfu town, at 1 Andreadi Street (26610 88200). There are medical centers and doctors on call around the island and you are never likely to be further than half an hour's drive away from medical attention. |
| Pharmacy |
| There are pharmacies everywhere around Corfu town and in most other major towns and resort areas. Opening hours are 8 am-2 pm. The one or two that are open in the off hours are posted on the storefront of every pharmacy, by law. |
| Tourist Agency |
| International Tours (32 El. Venizelou, just behind the harbor, 26610 39007, www.intertourscorfu.gr) is a very helpful, full service agency. Also: Karoukas Travel (26610 53909, 26610 91596, www.karoukas-travel.com). |
| Foreign Press Outlet |
| Corfu is a major tourist destination and there are foreign press outlets everywhere, including most mini markets. |
| Internet Cafe |
| These days there seem to be Internet cafes everywhere, and certainly in all major towns and some secondary ones. Many travel agencies offer Internet access, and not only to their clients. |
| Car Rental |
| Car, motorbike, and moped rental agencies are ubiquitous in Corfu town and around the island. It is usually better to get here before you rent; bargains abound. Budget about € 30 per day for a small car, less if you rent for longer periods. |
| Bank |
| Corfu is full of banks. All major Greek banks, and a couple of international ones, like Citibank, have offices in Corfu town. Alpha Bank on Kapodistriou, behind Liston, is an especially convenient full service bank. Voulgareos street, which starts at the southern end of Liston and ends at the Marks & Spencer department store, is lined with banks. There are banks in all major towns and resort areas. They handle all major transactions, such as money transfers, cash advances on credit cards, and money wires. Banking hours are Monday through Thursday 8am-2pm and Friday 8 am-2.30 pm. |
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