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Ithaca: The island of Odysseus
Κεφαλονιά: Ένας κρυφός παράδεισος
Chania Town: The Heart of Crete
Chania
Nature and history in a stunning setting
Frangokastelo holds sway over Cretan imagination because of the legend of the "dew shades" ghosts.
Frangokastelo holds sway over Cretan imagination because of the legend of the "dew shades" ghosts.
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Chania prefecture, in the western end of the island, combines the best of Crete without some of the excesses associated with the rapid tourism development of the last 40 years. The town of Chania, with its Venetian harbor and the remaining traces of the Ottoman occupation, was the capital of the island until the 1970s, and today remains its most charming city.

The region of Chania has a rich political history. Firstly, it is home to the two Cretan prime ministers of Greece, Eleftherios Venizelos and Constantine Mitsotakis. Then, it played a leading role in a series of uprisings in the 19th and early 20th centuries whose key aim was the unification of the island with the liberated mainland. Some of the fiercest combat of the Battle of Crete, in April 1941, when Nazi paratroopers stormed the island, took place in Chania, especially at the natural harbor of Souda and the airport at Maleme.

The village of Kandanos, on the road south to Paleochora, was burned to the ground by the Nazi troops as retaliation for its resistance. After rebuilding their homes, the locals put up in the town square the three engraved marble stones commissioned by the Nazis to commemorate the destruction of the village. They are still to be found there today. The Cretans' resistance to the airborne invasion, the first large scale airlift operation in history, was so fierce and German casualties so high, that, according to Raymond Cartier's History of World War II, Hitler decided to decommision his paratroopers after invading Crete.

In the south, the region of Sfakia and its capital, Chora Sfakion, are legendary in Greece as the birthplace of proud, indomitable, black-clad, and mustachioed warriors as well as long-running vendettas that lasted for centuries. Sfakia, on the south side of the White Mountains, was isolated from the rest of the islandfor centuries and its people were, until recently, a little bit rougher around the edges than their fellow Cretans. The road that connects Sfakia with the north and the opening of the beaches around Chora Sfakion to mass tourism have taken a lot of the edge off.

The Highlights
  • The town of Chania with its Venetian harbor and charming hotels and restaurants.
  • The beaches around Maleme.
  • The drive from Chania to Paleochora, through Kandanos.
  • The Samaria gorge.
  • The beaches at Falasarna, Elafonisi and Illingas.
  • The Omalos plateau.
  • The Allied Cemetery in Souda.
We Recommend
  • Walk the Samaria Gorge.
  • Drive from Chania town to Paleochora, then to Sougia, and back to Chania through the Omalos Plateau.
  • Have dinner at one of the tavernas that stretch from the Jenissaries Mosque to the eastern end of the Venetian Harbor, for good food and great ambiance.
  • Eat at the Anaplous restaurant, two blocks inside from Chania town's old Venetian harbor.
We Do Not Recommend
  • Restaurants and cafes with pictures of the offered dishes on the menu. That would include most of the places on the old Venetian harbor of Chania.
  • Akrotiri, northeast of Chania town: a non-descript suburban sprawl with nothing of interest, not even decent beaches.
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Useful Information
The country code for Greece is 0030 (from the US and Canada: 01130).
Tourist Info Office
In Chania town: 6 Akti Tobazi (28210 36204-6), and 16 1866 Square (28210 36204-6).
Police Station
There are police stations in every major and secondary town, usually at the central square or on main street. For emergencies, dial 100.
Hospital
The General Hospital of Chania town is in Mournies, about 2 km south of town (28210 22000-9). There are medical centers in almost every major town and resort area.
Pharmacy
There are pharmacies in all towns and resort towns, such as Chania, Agia Marina, Paleochora, etc. In Chania town, most of them are just off the Venetian harbor. All pharmacies carry signs with a list of pharmacies open in the off hours, by law.
Tourist Agency
GS Tours, at the Venetian harbor, is a full service agency that also rents villas (28210 58307-8, www.gstours.gr). Also: El Greco Tours (28210 86015-7, www.elgrecotours.com), Kalamaki Travel (28210 31995, www.smart-holidays.com.gr), and Tellus Travel (28210 91500, www.grecian.net/...).
Foreign Press Outlet
There are newstands with foreign newspapers, magazines, and paperbacks everywhere, including most of the beach resort towns of the south coast.
Internet Cafe
In Chania town, Trapeza ("Bank") Internet Cafe, at 14 Sourmeli street, at the Venetian harbor. Almost all resort towns around Chania feature one or more Internet cafes nowdays. Many hotels do also. Some travel agencies may allow you to check your email through their system.
Car Rental
ST Rentals, 7 Daskalogianni (28210 45797) and also 69 Kissamou (28210 98918). Taxi service at Chania Radio Taxi (28210 98700-1, 28210 94300).
Bank
All major towns and resort areas feature one or more full service branches of major Greek banks. They handle all major transactions, such as money transfers, cash advances on credit cards, and money wires. Banking hours are Monday through Thursday 8am-2pm and Friday 8 am-2.30 pm.
ATM
ATMs are ubiquitous in Chania town and in the major resort areas, like Paleochora, Agia Marina, Georgioupolis, etc.