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Crete is to Greece what Scotland is to the UK, the Deep South is to the US, or Bavaria is to Germany: a country-within-a-country, with its own traditions, unique character and history, and even linguistic idiom, but an integral part of a unified national whole.
Although fiercely nationalistic and protective of their Greek national identity, Cretans are also extremely proud and particular about coming from Crete. And for good reason. The island, at about 8,336 sq. km the largest in the country and the third largest in the Mediterranean, has always been just "a little different" than the mainland.
The first Greek territory to establish an advanced civilization, centered around Minoan Knossos and Faestos, Crete was the last piece of what is today Greece to fall under Ottoman rule, with the conquest of Heraklion in 1669.
Throughout the centuries, Cretan history is an almost never-ending stream of defensive wars and rebellions against the various conquerors the waves of history have washed upon its shores. The island's position, on the shipping routes between Europe, Africa and the Middle East has meant a constant stream of suitors, for the better part of 30 centuries, bent on establishing their control over the Eastern Mediterranean.
As a result, the island is dotted with monuments and traces of both the passing of various civilizations through its mountainous terrain and of the Cretans' struggle to oust them and regain their independence. Minoan ruins, Classical temples, Venetian castles, Ottoman Mosques, and Allied and Wermacht cemeteries, make Crete a live theme park of the whole history of the Mediterranean region.
If the unsuspecting visitor does not decide to take a refresher course on the history of Antiquity and the Middle Ages after leaving Crete they never will.
Besides fighting against invaders, the Cretans have also spent a good part of the last 3 thousand years painting, writing, and composing. El Greco ("the Greek") was born Domenico Theotocopoulos, in Fodele, before leaving for Italy and then Spain, to create some of the greatest art of the Rennaisance combining Byzantine austerity with Western forms in his haunting paintings of Spanish nobles and landscapes.
Niko Kazantzakis immortalized the Cretan mentality in "Zorba" and portrayed a human Jesus in the still extremely controversial "The Last Temptation", which was made into a major motion picture by Martin Scorsese in 1988.
Greece's two greatest modern composers were born to Cretan fathers, albeit they never lived on the island. First, Manos Hadjidakis, the composer of, among others, the score for Jules Dassin's "Never on Sunday", which won him an Academy Award in 1960 for original song in a motion picture, and which epitomizes modern Greek music to the foreign ear. Then, Mikis Theodorakis, the Greek "national composer", whose works include the scores for Sidney Lumet's "Serpico" and Costa-Gavra's "Z" and "State of Siege" as well as the sublime musical rendering of 1980 Literature Nobel Prize laureate Odysseas Elytis' poem "Axion Esti".
Crete, today, is one of the most prosperous regions of Greece, largely relying on mass as well as luxury tourism for its wealth and growth. From the package holidays hotels of Hersonisos, east of Heraklion, to the ultra-luxury, self-contained resorts of Elounda, north of Agios Nikolaos, and to the basic-but-charming accomodations that can be found in the dozens of isolated beaches and bays of southern Crete, the island caters to every taste and pocketbook.
In addition, a thriving agricultural sector serves as Greece's year-round vegetable garden and produces perhaps the finest quality olive oil in the world. The island is also home to one of Greece's most distinct regional cuisines, with pies of every kind and roast lamb at its core.
Cretans are among the highest-life-expectancy groups in the world, and that is mostly due to their diet, which includes all the elements of the Mediterranean diet: balanced parts of vegetables, fruits, seafood, and free-range lamb, all grilled or cooked in olive oil, and washed down with generous portions of locally-produced, ancient-variety wines and raki (or tsikoudia).
The combination of a 7-month tourist season, year-round sunshine and mild weather, stunning physical beauty and fascinating local culture has attracted thousands of expatriates, from across Europe and the world, that now call Crete their home.
The island's cosmopolitan north shore, tradition-bound and agriculture-based inland mountain ranges, and the stunning beaches in the south make Crete a must-visit destination.
The Highlights
The old town of Chania, with footprints of 3 thousand years of history around every corner.
The small fishing village of Zakros, 20 km south of Vai, on the eastern shore, for stunning natural beauty, all the good vibes anyone may need in one lifetime, and charming isolation.
The Gorge of Samaria, in Chania, the largest gorge in Europe and, with Santorini and Meteora, the three top natural wonders of Greece.
The bay of Elounda, home to the country's best luxury resort hotels, and a number of its best restaurants.
The drive from Chania to Paleochora: Colorado meets Tuscany and ends up in Zihuatanejo.
The Omalos plateau, in Chania, right before the Samaria Gorge, and the Lasithi plateau, east of Heraklion.
Cretan food: pies, roast lamb, local wine, raki.
The Hersonisos and Malia region of Heraklion for 24-hour partying.
Matala, for a taste of Haight-Ashbury-on-the-Libyan-Sea.
We Recommend
Rent a car and drive to the south, throughout the mountains. Most southbound roads are in excellent condition. Start out early in the morning. Have coffee in some village on the way south. Spend a good part of the day at the beach and then drive back up north to have a late lunch in any village on your way.
Make time to visit Knossos and the Archeological Museum of Heraklion, whether your are into ruins and history, or not.
Visit the restored synagogue right off Chania's Venetian harbor.
Have dinner at Chania's Anaplous restaurant, lunch at the Aetos tavern in Anogia, and dinner at the Michelin-rated restaurants of the Elounda resort hotels.
Go for a swim in Preveli and ride a paddle boat up the stream.
We Do Not Recommend
The Vai palm beach. It is overrated, crowded, and expensive.
The Hersonisos and Malia region of Heraklion because of the 24-hour partying.
The town of Heraklion, for more than one day, i.e. for how long it takes to browse through its spectacular Archeological Museum and look at the dozen other interesting sites.
Matala, unless the 60s were really good to you and you don't want to let go. In any case, the 60s are over, even in Matala. Try telling that to the ubiquitous tie-dyed T-shirt merchants...
Restaurants and cafes with pictures of the offered dishes on the menu. That would include most of the places on the old Venetian harbors of Chania and Rethymnon.
The country code for Greece is 0030 (from the US and Canada: 01130).
Tourist Info Office
Every major town and resort has one. Check the destination guide for each location (on the left side of this page) for more information.
Police Station
There are police stations in every major and secondary town, usually at the central square or on main street. For emergencies, dial 100. Check the destination guide for each location (on the left side of this page) for more information.
Hospital
All major towns have general hospitals, and most smaller towns and villages are likely to have a medical center. You are very unlikely to ever be more than half an hour's drive away from medical attention.
Pharmacy
Pharmacies are everywhere, except in small villages. Opening hours are 8 am to 2 pm, Monday through Friday. Pharmacies open in the off hours are posted on every pharmacy storefront.
Tourist Agency
Crete is full of travel agencies. Every major and minor town has one, and, of course, the resort areas like Paleochora, Hersonissos, and Matala. Check the destination guide for each location (at the "Also go to" section above) for more information.
Foreign Press Outlet
Crete is a resort island and takes in more than 2 million tourists a year. As a result, foreign press newstands are everywhere; even mini markets carry foreign papers and magazines these days.
Internet Cafe
There are Internet cafes in every major town and resort area these days, and some travel agencies provide Internet access, and not only to their clients.
Car Rental
Car, motorbike, and moped rental shops are a dime-a-dozen and there is never a shortage of vehicles.
Bank
All major Greek banks have one or more full service branches and ATMs in every large town and resort area. They handle all major transactions, such as money transfers, cash advances on credit cards, and money wires. Banking hours are Monday through Thursday 8am-2pm and Friday 8 am-2.30 pm. Almost all secondary towns have at least one bank branch and at least one ATM.
